Characteristics of the Various Breeds of Dogs

July 5, 2021

Louise's Dog Blog

The dog has been around humans, the latest research shows, for the past 15,000 years, or more.  In the beginning the dog was merely a “camp follower”.  Its presence around the early settlements was tolerated possibly because it helped clean up the waste that accumulated in the village dumps to which the early dog was attracted.  These dumps were a relatively risk-free source of food and it didn’t require much effort to obtain enough food for the animal’s survival.  All it required was a certain level of “tameability”.

Over time various “land races” evolved with characteristics which were determined largely by the environment they were exposed to which was initially geographic.  All the greyhound type dogs come from landraces which evolved all over the Middle East and which were used for hunting for thousands of years – the Saluki of Arabia and the Borzoi of Russia;  The herders – precursors…

View original post 448 more words


Retriever Training – Steadiness using Premack

June 6, 2021

Having just watched one of Susan Garrett’s podcasts on the Premack Principle I though of this blog post where I used Premack to teach my dogs to be steady on a retrieve.

Louise's Dog Blog

In retriever tests and trials it is a requirement that your dog is steady in the line until sent by the handler to retrieve.  An unsteady dog will fail to mark the fall accurately, particularly if the fall is in cover of some sort, so steadying a dog is one of the skills it is important to master if your dog is to “make the grade”.

Punishment as Motivation – not Recommended

Traditional trainers through the years have used punishment to teach the dog to remain steady.  Some dogs are brought into line wearing a lead which will then bring the dog up short as he runs out and hits the end of the leash.  Some trainers clip their dog with a heeling stick or whip as they run out.  Some trainers “correct” their dogs at the slightest sign of breaking with a helper armed with a BB gun or…

View original post 969 more words


The Eight out of Ten Rule

May 25, 2021

Louise's Dog Blog

The whole point of so-called “obedience” training is to have some control of your dog’s behaviour at all times and in spite of distractions, without having to physically handle him.  This can only happen if you train thoroughly.  This means that for each behaviour you must apply the 80% correct rule.  This means that you need to get 8 out of 10 rewardable repetitions before you can raise your criteria.  The problem with most training is that the reinforcers are removed too soon – before the behaviour is conditioned.  Conditioned behaviour is something the dog does not have to think about.  He hears (or sees) the cue and his muscle memory takes over.  This conditioning is very much what happens to humans who play a musical instrument or drive a car.

For example, let’s assume that you have planned to practise “sit” in your formal training session.

Step 1: …

View original post 857 more words


The Case of the “Stubborn” Dog

March 24, 2021

Have you ever been in a situation where your dog, for no apparent reason, stops doing a behaviour that he or she has been doing really well in the past?  Is your dog being stubborn?  Is he trying to “dominate” you?  Has he forgotten his training?  Or does the answer originate with you, the handler?

When you require your dog to perform a task the sequence is to give the dog a CUE which is followed by the BEHAVIOUR which you asked for followed by a CONSEQUENCE.  A cue is the “green light” that tells the dog it’s time to do a behaviour. A cue can be anything that the animal can perceive: verbal, visual, environmental, a scent, a sound, or a touch. A cue can be trained—the word “down” is a common verbal cue that means “lie down on the ground.”  Or, a cue can simply be learned from association—when I open the lid of the treat jar in no time I am surrounded by dogs with sad, starving dog faces so I will give them a biscuit.

As Karen Pryor describes in her book, “Reaching the Animal Mind”, a poisoned cue occurs when a dog associates unpleasant things with a cue. Because of these unpleasant associations, the dog will either hesitate to perform the behaviour or not do it at all. We humans think of unpleasant as a reprimand or scolding, or painful, like a jerk on a check chain. But what we think is unpleasant and what the dog thinks is unpleasant are often different. A slight tug on the leash, pulling on our dog’s collar, leaning over the dog, or even a pat on the head, can all be unpleasant – for the dog.

Poisoned cues are more common than you think and are often the culprit when a dog is thought to be stubborn.

In the following scenario, a dog who was previously coming when called in response to the cue “Come” and a treat, for no apparent reason stopped responding to the cue, and when called ignored the handler, avoiding eye contact and sniffing the grass.  In this case the “Come” cue had been inadvertently paired with a scolding.  The “Come” cue had been “poisoned”.

In another scenario, a dog who had been delivering a toy very nicely to the handler’s outstretched hand for no apparent reason started dropping it at the handler’s feet.  What the handler had been doing was to “reward” the dog for delivery by patting it on the head which the dog didn’t enjoy.  So he started dropping the dummy thus avoiding the pat on the head.  The outstretched hand which was the cue for delivery was poisoned by the pat on the head.

Person-patting-dog-animal-rights-5325327-400-264

So, before you label your dog as being stubborn, look at yourself and your behavior.  You might be inadvertently poisoning your cues.

 


Keeping Your Dog Busy

January 19, 2021

Louise's Dog Blog

Giving your dog a supply of toys is one way of keeping him busy.  There are an amazing variety of toys for dogs these days.   Fluffy toys that squeak, rubber toys for chewing, and interactive rope toys for playing tug.  The problem with most of these toys is that because dogs – unlike children – do not have the right brains for inventing solitary make-believe games with their toys, very quickly tire of them.  One solution is that if your dog has many toys, do not make them available all at once.  Rotate them so that there are always one or two toys that he or she hasn’t seen in a while.

The best toys are those that involve finding food.  Dogs that are not family pets spend most of their waking hours foraging for food.  So, it stands to reason that if you want to keep your dog amused…

View original post 560 more words


Empathy and Emotions

April 27, 2020

Instead of presenting yet another challenge, I would like to post this article that I wrote in 2012 and I feel is very relevant now.

Louise's Dog Blog

According to Frans de Waal empathy is the capacity to (a) be affected by and share the emotional state of another, (b) assess the reasons for the other’s state, and (c) identify with the other, adopting his or her perspective.   This definition extends beyond what exists in many animals, but the term “empathy” … applies even if only criterion (a) is met.”

Every night owner John Unger takes his sleeping pal Schoep into the waters of Lake Superior in Wisconsin and lulls him to sleep.

There are a many articles and studies done on whether or not dogs are empathetic towards humans.  But in spite of the fact that empathy towards the dogs we live with is an essential ingredient in our relationship and interaction with these animals very little has been written about this subject.  How often with our own dogs do we put feelings of frustration and aggravation…

View original post 407 more words


DAY 28 OF LOCKDOWN SA CHALLENGES

April 23, 2020

Our President, Cyril Ramaphosa, addressed the nation this evening and has advised that from May 1 our Lockdown will be moving into a slightly less intense phase.  This is a great relief and will mean a slight relaxation of some of the restrictions.  However, public gatherings will still be restricted so that means that dog training classes are still on hold.  However, Animal Behaviour Consultants of South Africa are preparing a document motivating the resumption of dog-related activities so hopefully there will be some relaxation in our case.  In the meantime, I will be continuing with these free challenges certainly until we hear what the outcome is on the 1st of May.

dog touching target 2

 

My challenge over the past day or so has been to concentrate more on “targeting”.  Targeting and Luring are two similar and easy ways that we can “get” a dog to perform a behaviour.   Both a food lure and a touched target lead an animal into position. Both “get the behaviour.” Is there any real difference between the two methods? Why do some trainers rely on luring while others opt for targeting?  Both methods have similarities and some important differences.

Similarities are:

  1. Both methods require an eventual fade of the lure or the target so that they don’t become the final cue for the behaviour.
  2. Both carry a risk of the trainer becoming as dependent on a physical prompt as is the animal to complete the behaviour.  Beginner trainers are afraid that they may lose the progress they have made without maintaining the method that got them there.

Differences are:

  1. The lured animal is so focused on the treat that it is thinking of its appetite and not the task.  Less learning has been accomplished.
  2. With targeting although there is also a food reward the food is not in front of the dog so that it can think of the task and not its appetite.  More learning is accomplished.

So with targeting the animal is more engaged in the process, has accomplished more learning, and is more able to apply that learning to any number of behaviours.

The most basic targets are for the dog to touch his nose or paw to a hand, but there are also targets that may not seem so obvious.  We taught the dogs to target a “Perch” earlier in the challenges, as well as a platform.  Getting onto a mat is also targeting behaviour.  Your challenge over the next few days is to teach your dogs to touch your hand with a nose or paw and also to follow a target stick.

I’ll be back tomorrow so in the meantime, stay safe.


DAY 27 OF LOCKDOWN SA CHALLENGES

April 22, 2020

TRAINING MULTIPLE DOGS IN THE SAME SESSION

If you are pressed for time in your training, then locking one or more dogs away while you work with another is time-consuming and tends to take away the spontaneity of a training session. Also, the dogs that are locked away and probably crying and barking to join you are not learning anything. It also makes planning your training sessions easier.

Teaching dogs to wait their turn off-lead and at the same time enabling observation is a useful skill and well-worth the time it takes to train. The Premack Principle also comes into play here as it does with so many of the skills you teach your dog.

What is the Premack Principle?

An individual will be more motivated to perform an activity if he knows that he will participate in a more desirable activity as a consequence. Stated objectively, if high-probability behaviours (more desirable behaviours) are made contingent upon lower-probability behaviours (less desirable behaviours), then the lower-probability behaviours are more likely to occur. The Premack principle has long been informally understood and used in a wide variety of circumstances. An example is a mother who says, “You have to finish your vegetables (low frequency) before you can eat any ice cream (high frequency)”. So with our Go to Mat game, we are reinforcing the high probability behaviour of the opportunity to train with you by making it contingent on your dog waiting on his mat (low probability behaviour) for his turn to train with you and at the same time reinforcing the low probability behaviour of waiting on the mat.

Step 1:  For two dogs you will need two mats placed close together. Close enough so that you can stand in front of them and feed them treats without moving your feet. Give them three of four treats turn and turnabout, saying the dog’s name just before delivering the treat. Release them for a break and repeat the step a couple of times.

In this video I have added my pup to the lineup but the principle remains the same for two dogs.  Notice how I handled Bo leaving her mat.

Step 2:  For your next session, and provided all went well with Step 1, you can now move the mats further apart. You now must take a couple of steps between the mats in order to give each dog his treat for waiting patiently on his mat. If Dog A breaks and follows you to Dog B, then do nothing. Give Dog B his treat – say nothing to Dog A but walk back to his mat and wait for him to get on it. Only then does he get his treat. Do not say anything but just wait for him to make the right choice and get on to his mat. It might be that you have not taught the basics of Go to Mat thoroughly enough, in which case you need to revisit Step 1 and 2 of the basic GTM game.

Step 3:  Only proceed to Step 3 if you are sure that each dog will stay on his mat while you move from one to the other or until released. With the mats positioned as they were for Step 2, and with each dog stationed on his mat, call Dog A off his mat and either on lead or off lead him a few paces away and do a couple of reps of an exercise that he can do well.  At this stage, you do not want to be teaching him a new skill. You then take him back to his mat and repeat the exercise with Dog B. Alternate each dog a couple of times, and then release.


DAY 26 OF LOCKDOWN SA CHALLENGES

April 21, 2020

I thought it was time to do a quick review of the learning challenges that have been posted since Day 1 of Lockdown.  So this is a list of the challenges if you need to go back and review anything.

Teaching Down and adding a verbal cue:  You find these on DAY TWO  and DAY FIVE

Teaching Perch – Easy beginnings:  DAY THREE and DAY FOUR

Teaching Chin Rest:  DAY FIVE and DAY 6 

Teaching Self Control:  DAY SEVEN

Platforms and Stays:  DAY 8 and DAY 16 

Retrieve:  DAY 10 

Clicker/Marker Training:  DAY 12

Loose Lead Walking:  DAY 13 and DAY 14

Go to Mat:  DAY 19 and DAY 20

Tricks – Spin:  DAY 23

Tricks – Around:  Day 24

I hope this will help you negotiate the blog if you’re looking for something specific.

I know that some of you have more than one dog and I always feel bad having to lock one of mine away while I’m training the other.  They feel bad as well!  And left out!  But there is a way that you can train more than one at the same time.  The first step is to teach Go to Mat Step 1 and Step 2.  I will tomorrow show you how to include all your dogs into your training sessions.

Take care and Stay Safe.

 

 


Day 24 of Lockdown SA Challenges

April 19, 2020

I hope you are all staying safe and keeping busy.  I also hope that working through these challenges and tasks has kept you and your dogs stimulated enough to ward off any feelings of frustration.

Yesterday I explained a trick that is really easy to teach your dog and once accomplished will give both you and your dog a sense of achievement even though it doesn’t really have any practical purpose apart from keeping your dog moving in ways that are different from the norm.

Today I’d like you to learn how to send your dog around an obstacle.  You can use any obstacle that your dog can circle with ease.  It can be a plant, a pole, a tree or even a chair or a person!

Step 1:  Stand in front of your obstacle with your dog facing the obstacle.  Holding a piece of food in front of your dog’s nose lure him around the obstacle, either clockwise or counterclockwise.  Mark with a click or the word “Good” or “Yes” as he is going around and give him the food in your hand when he finishes.  Repeat this step 5 or 6 times and have a break before doing another couple of repetitions.

Step 2:  With your next session use the food to lure your dog around the obstacle a couple of times, then with an empty hand and with the same gesture as if you had food in the hand, repeat this 3 or 4 times.  Once again, mark when the dog is halfway around the obstacle and feed when the dog finishes.  You will probably have to repeat this step over the next 3 sessions.

Step 3:  By now your dog should get excited when he sees the obstacle and might even pre-empt going around it.  In this case, show him how excited you are at his progress and reward him.  However, he might be waiting for you to give him the hand signal so it’s okay to do this.  Repeat step 3 once again over two sessions.

The final step is to add a verbal cue, but I’ll cover that tomorrow.

This is a video I took this morning of Bo demonstrating the “Go Around”.


%d bloggers like this: